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Italy
NAPLES-CAMPAGNA
The Neapolitans who emigrated to other lands also made famous their city's
two great dishes: pizza and spaghetti. They also popularized pommarola,
the tomato sauce that graces pizza and most pasta dishes. Many North
Americans, therefore, are surprised by the great variety of foods in
Italy. But it is not surprising that these simple foods have gained such
popularity: they are easy to eat, tasty, satisfying, and inexpensive.
From Naples to the world! Since before the 1700s, the bakers of Naples
transformed simple bread dough and the produce of their gardens into a
food enjoyed almost everywhere. The classic Neapolitan pizza may have only
sliced garlic, a brush of olive oil, and a final sprinkle of fresh basil,
oregano, or rosemary A more elaborate version will be graced with the
addition of freshly chopped tomatoes, slivers of anchovies, and shredded Mozarella all baked to perfection in a brick-lined oven.
But Neapolitan food is not all pizza and spaghetti. This area also boasts
an array of fish and seafood dishes that include octopus, clams, mussels,
sea truffles and sea dates, eels, sea scorpion, shrimps and prawns,
swordfish, dogfish and skate. These may be grilled, boiled, or fried;
served dressed with olive oil, garlic and tomatoes or capers and black
olives; they may be simmered in savory soup-stews or cooked and chilled
then served in salads with lemon juice and olive oil.
Neapolitans love the idea that their foods and their lively temperament
symbolize Italy for much of the world. They treasure their traditional
recipes as much as they enjoy indulging themselves in old songs and folk
music, in ancient superstitions and modern pleasures. They enjoy eating on
the run: tiny folded pizzas called libretti, snacks of fresh seafood, and
small containers with oysters and even small servings of vegetables that
can be hurriedly enjoyed.
Many cheeses are used but Mozarella made from buffalo milk is the favorite
for pizza. It is also used to top many vegetable dishes and in hot-fried
cheese sandwiches such as mozarella in carroza. Other versions of
mozarella-inspired foods include panzarotti, turnovers of tender yeast
dough filled with several cheeses such as Parmesan, Mozarella and
Provolone then deep-fried to seal the melted cheese mixture within, and
fritto di mozarella, squares of cheese, egg and crumb, clipped then
deep-fried and eaten while hot.
While pasta of every description creates so many meals, this is not to say
that rice and polenta have not reached the South. The famed sartu di riso
alla napoletana is a magnificent rice mold layered with cheese and meat
sauce, seasoned rice and tiny meatballs alternated with a filling of
chicken livers, crumbled sausage meat and peas, plus more slices of
Mozarella. The dish is baked then unmolded. With similar Neapolitan flair,
polenta finds itself sliced and layered with pork sausages, Parmesan, and
Pecorino cheeses and baked into a golden casserole called migliaccio
napoletana. Whenever possible, Neapolitan dishes exhibit the same bursting
exuberance as the people who cooked them - and those who happily eat them.
The first ice cream shops or gelateria opened in Tuscany in the 1500s, but
the Southern Italians are believed to be responsible for the popularity of
ice cream in North America. Spumone is the specialty of Naples: a layered
oval mold of several flavors of ice cream and sherbets with mixed fruits.
But there are at least five distinct types of gelati: granita, a
crystal-like sherbet usually flavored either with lemon or coffee; gelati,
the familiar firm ice cream made with fruits, nuts, etc., in a rich creamy
base; coppe, several flavors of gelati served in a dish and garnished with
fruit, etc.; cassata, a decorative ice cream cake or mold layering several
gelati with whipped cream and fruits; and finally the semifreddi, a type
of soft foamy ice cream that also comes in many flavors. Most of these are
usually served in dessert dishes with a topping of whipped cream and
sometimes a liqueur as well.
But the gelati do not satisfy every Neapolitan sweet tooth. Some like to
indulge in the many crisply baked or deep-fried little pastries,
honey-dipped and candy-sprinkled as well: zeppole or struffoli. |
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